Since we had to leave for England
this morning, we both packed our luggage before we went to eat
breakfast. I decided to just have scrambled eggs and bacon with the
potato bread. Today Jeremy decided that he would order the "Ultster Breakfast" that I
had had yesterday. The breakfasts here have been so good that they
probably have spoiled us for the rest of the trip. I hope not. Anyway,
I let Jeremy finish eating and went out to take some pictures of the
"honeymoon cottage" where "Jack
and Joy" spent
their belated honeymoon. It’s right next to the room in which we had
eaten our breakfast each morning. I also stopped by the clerk’s desk
and picked up a letter that had been left for me by James O’Fee
during breakfast. Unknown to me he had brought me the address of Cecil
Harwood’s son who lives in Grasmere. Maybe we can meet him. C.S.
Lewis was his godfather. Shortly, I paid the bill and then went out to
the car.
From Crawfordsburn we then drove to
the A2 and then went onto the motorways that go toward the airport. I
think that they were the M3 and then the M2. Once we were off of the
main road and close to the airport, we had to stop and buy gas. To
fill up the tank it cost us 37 pounds, making it over $3.50 per
gallon. Just before we arrived at the airport, we stopped at Budget to
return the car with the clerk then driving us over to the airport.
The first thing we had to do at the
airport was to go through security, as well as being frisked again. Then we went
to the check counter to get our seat assignment. At the ticket counter
the clerk asked us if we wanted to volunteer to be bumped to a later
flight and possibly receive 50 pounds a piece for our delay. If we
somehow did not get bumped, then we would automatically move up to the
business class on the original flight. This setup also allowed us to
wait in a special Diamond Club lounge reserved only for the
business/first class ticket holders. Since our train was not supposed
to leave London until about 4:30 p.m., we decided to volunteer. As it
happened, we were not bumped, but we did have refreshments and snacks
on the house and a whole lounge virtually to ourselves for the next 30
minutes. Once we were on the plane, we sat in row 4 up front and were
given a brunch of bagels, fruits and juice with a piece of
salmon. We were not sure if the fish was cooked or not, but we thought
it was.
The flight went real well, and I
worked on my journal for what time was left after the meal. When we
arrived at Heathrow Airport, we picked up our luggage and went looking
for the Heathrow Express to the Paddington Train Station. But before we
could do that we needed to have our BritRail tickets validated at a
ticket office in one of the terminals. Having forgotten this, we had to backtrack a little to
find a ticket office. In order to validate the tickets we had to show our passport
and actually sign the tickets in front of an agent and then have it
stamped. We then walked back to the tracks to catch our train.
Amazingly, it was only 7 minutes before it arrived.
The Heathrow
Express train was a positive experience - very up-to-date and plenty
of room. We almost had a whole car to ourselves. When we got off the
train at Paddington Station, all pandemonium seemed to brake loose.
Trains, tracks and people were everywhere. Originally we had planned to leave London
at 4:48 p.m., but as we were looking at
the departure monitors, Jeremy noticed that a Thames Train was leaving
within 4 minutes; so, he suggested we try to find it and take it. We
hustled to find both the Thames Train area and our specific train and
rushed to get on it. The only possible problem with our choice of
trains was that we discovered that part of the train would be
uncoupled at Oxford with the rest going on to Great Malvern
(pronounced Mall-vern) where we were headed. We were not sure which
section we were on. Soon though, an announcement came over the
public address system telling us that the front 2 cars would uncouple
at Oxford and go up to Stratford-upon-Avon, and since we were in the
back of the train, all we needed to do was just stay put. When I was
finally seated, I began visiting with an elderly lady who was
complaining about the train service. Jeremy was sitting across the
aisle from her and I was just one seat behind her. She told us that
she had come to Paddington Station from Norfolk and had had several
complications along the way. Trying to get things back on the positive
side, I looked her straight in the eye and told her in my Virginia
accent that I had been born in Norfolk, and then she looked at me real
funny-like. Then, I added, "Norfolk, Virginia, over in the
States." She smiled and we continued to visit a little longer.
She was traveling to the Cotswalds, to a city called Kingham. It was a
little difficult for me to understand all that she was saying with her
accent. She was now retired but had been a teacher in the Far East (Hong Kong, etc.) for
the British Diplomatic Corps.
The train itself and our car
specifically was almost completely full. When we finally did get
settled into our trip, I was able to spend some time writing in my journal, trying
to catch up on the last day or so that we had spent in Northern Ireland. Just before
we reached Oxford several people moved up to the front cars which were
then uncoupled and left us. Several more cars were then added to our
two, and we began our journey again. I moved up and to the right to
some seats which had a small table beside it, making it a lot easier
to write in my journal. Shortly, and I forget exactly how many
stations along the way that this happened, the man in the seat next to
me stood up to leave and a dog jumped out of his seat as well. Nothing
was wrong. It just kind of startled me. He had gotten on the train
before we did and the dog had been a perfect passenger. I just had not
noticed it.
Two teenage girls remained in the
seats across from where the man and dog had been. Upon first seeing
them I had thought that they might have been traveling with him as a
family. As I continued writing, I heard one of the girls say something
to the other one about reading the Harry Potter books. My ears pricked
up, and I asked them if they liked Harry Potter. One of them said,
"Yes." So, I asked her if she also liked the Chronicles of
Narnia She seemed to not understand my question. So, I followed up
my question by sharing with them that Jeremy and I had been visiting
places that were associated with C.S. Lewis, the author of the The
Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, one of the books in the
Chronicles of Narnia series. She then smiled and told me that it had been read to them by their teacher at
school, going on further to tell me that when their class had visited
Malvern, they were taken to see the ‘lamp post"
in Malvern that
supposedly had inspired the lamp post in Lewis’ book. I went on to
ask them if they were familiar with Malvern itself, and they said that
they attended school at Malvern College. I then reckoned that they might know something about where certain
places were in Malvern; so, I asked them if they knew where The Foley
Inn was or if they knew of any good places to eat. They gave me an
answer, but I was not able to understand exactly what they were
describing. Moments later they departed from the train at Malvern
Links, and we traveled on to Great Malvern.
When Jeremy and I got off of the
train a few minutes later, we looked around at the hills, saw some taxicabs nearby and
decided that we would take a taxi instead of walking to our hotel, The
Foley Arms. I think that it was first used as a hotel almost 200 years
ago. It might be even older than that. The cab ride cost us 2 pounds 3
pence. After paying the driver, we went on into the hotel to register.
At first there a little confusion because they were not able to find
my reservation. Finally we discovered that instead of being reserved
under my name, the reservation was listed as Thomas
James. Our room 12A was on the second floor. Since the town of
Great Malvern sits on the side of one of the Malvern Hills and looks
down and out over the Severn River Valley, the scenery through our open window was beautiful, but again,
like in Belfast, somewhat hazy.
After unpacking and getting settled
in, I wanted to contact George Sayer, close friend, biographer, and
former student of Lewis, as soon as possible. Since there were no
telephone books in the room, I called down to the
desk clerk and asked if they could find his telephone number for me. In a few minutes they called back with the number, and I
then called and reached his wife, Margaret.Sayer. Having written to
them several weeks before, she knew who I was the moment I introduced
myself, but she was very apologetic to me about her husband being very
sick and not able to see us. In fact she told that he had only
recently had a heart attack and seems, at 86 to have become, according
to Mrs. Sayer, senile. She had apologized because she thought that her
husband had answered my letter and explained the situation to me, but
she was not sure. Anyway, I expressed to her how appreciative I was of
his work related to C.S. Lewis and told her that we understood and
would keep both of them in our prayers. I did take a few more minutes
to ask her about other things to do in Great Malvern, in addition to
visiting the college and walking on the hills. Plus, I asked her if
she would suggest a good place to eat. She suggested that we be sure
to visit the Priory Church and the Abbey Gatehouse Museum and also
mentioned two restaurants. One was not too far away, down near the
Abbey Gatehouse. I thanked her for her help and hung up the phone.
Jeremy and I then decided to take a
walk around town, looking at
the same time for a place to eat supper.
On the way out of the hotel we picked
up a
map from the desk clerk,
went out the door, took a few pictures of the hotel and promptly
headed the wrong way up the street. Once we realized that we were
headed the wrong way, we turned around and walked back toward the
hotel and then over to the Malvern Priory Church. We arrived at the
church about 6:00 p.m. and discovered that we could still look around
inside until 6:30 p.m. It is hard to describe in words both its
outward beauty and its overpowering massive size. At first sight, both
inside and outside, it almost startled me. On our tour inside we
discovered that
this church has been a place of worship for some 900
years going back to Norman times in the late 11th and early 12th
centuries. Just before we came out the caretaker shared with us some
information their services and I also paid 1 pound for a booklet about
the church to help me remember what we had seen. Jeremy and I then
went outside and took some pictures. We also took time to sit on a
nearby park bench to quietly meditate on the building’s overwhelming
size.
Our next adventure led us down the
road a ways to visit Malvern College (more like an American prep
school). We came to the college grounds and began walking around the
campus, hoping to meet someone who might give us directions. Sure
enough, we were soon met by a lady about my age who looked like she
might work there, and she asked us if we knew where we were going. We
admitted the obvious and began to share with her who we were and why
we were there. This led to her making two comments, one about George
Sayer and the other about C.S. Lewis. She also told us that she was
unaware of the lamp post story that the teenage student had told to me
on the train. She did know about George Sayer being ill and shared
with us her understanding of his involvement in helping to get Tolkien’s
The Lord of the Rings published. According to her Tolkien had
had difficulty having it published and had almost decided to throw it
away and burn it. But somehow George Sayer made a persuasive visit
with a publisher that he knew and the rest is history. I will have to
check on the details of this when we get back home.
As for C.S.
Lewis being a student at Malvern College, she mentioned that while he
was there, his mother was very sick and that he did not like being
there very well. (I said nothing at that moment, but told Jeremy later
that Lewis’ mother had died before he ever came to Malvern College.)
Anyway, I then mentioned that I knew that because of his genetic thumb
problem – one of the joints did not move, Lewis did not do well in
or participate in or like sports. He did though, enjoy being in the
library where he could read and write. This led to her comment that
she understood that playing sports at that period in the college’s
history was a very important part of the school’s
emphasis and not
liking sports could be a problem, causing Lewis not to fit in. As for
the library, she told us how to get there and we thanked her for her
help, and said goodbye. She never did give us her name when we
introduced ourselves to her; so, I still do not know who she was. We then
walked down to the main college buildings and took some pictures of
the central large building that looked out over a lawn and a sport’s
field. Walking further we tried to find the library, but not having a
map of the college with us, we were not sure of what was what.
According our same lady-friend Lewis used to sit at the library and
look out across the Malvern Hills and the Severn Valley, meditating on
the landscape and scenery that would stay in his mind and one day be
an important part of his Narnian Chronicles.